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Art and Spirituality

Spirituality has always been a big part of my life.

I guess I always feel lucky because being an artist makes it so obvious that there is a larger creative energy source out there that some call God.

When I create, yes, it is from me, but I also feel connected to a Universal Source.  I feel like I tap into a creative energy that can be called God.  I feel like it is accessible to anyone who can close their mind and open their hearts to it.

It requires that I am in a peaceful place.  That I am not cycling the negative thoughts that so often occupy my mind.

Painting often gets me there.  Meditation can, too, as can sports and other things like writing, too.  Or listening to beautiful music.

Some might say that this is just a state of mind that is achieved through neuro-responses.

I disagree.  I guess there is a certain amount of trust involved that I cannot know or understand everything.

So, back to painting.  I sacrifice a lot to be a painter.  I feel it is a gift that the Universe or God gave me to be of service in the world.  I can bring beauty to the world through my talent.  Also, I feel closer to god when I’m creating.  I feel like I am doing something worth wile and that gives my life meaning.

Before I came to Korea, I went through an existential crisis where I thought I will give up pursuing painting and pick a different career where I could be more of service and be more secure financially.  I still hadn’t realized that painting IS how I can be of service.

Meeting Chang Wan helped me realize that the life of a painter can be a life of spirit, of giving, of service.

Seeing Chang Wan’s paintings around me, inspires me every Saturday.  It is like going to church, and being surrounded by love and symbols of goodness.

I was afraid to move into the sphere of creative energy, because once in it, in order to go through the creative process meaningfully you give up ego.  You just have to let go and trust.  This is something that scares because the ego does not want to be given up on.  It thinks it IS your identity!  In effect, you lose your ‘self’ in the creative process.  This is really an amazing and divine experience once you are there.  But then what can happen is that you lose touch with the material world.  The challenge is how to stay grounded and also regularly be in the spiritual realm.

Recently I have been listening to people like Eckart Tolle, explaining what ego is and the necessity of being aware of it and not letting it control you.

For example, Eckart Tolle calls it, “the pain body”  It is made up of all the negative experiences  that have happened to you in your past and also of the world.  I’ve spent many years sorting through what is my pain body, or what is real and what isn’t.  How do I access the “real me.”  This process I call finding the Truth.  The Truth, beauty, all that is good, love – that is what I call God.

I think of God as the Source.  The source of all, the force of all.  A power that is in every one of us.  One can walk with God when they are being authentic and living life with awareness of the Creative Force within them.  God is an energy that we can access through prayer, devotion, worship and service.  When we act from love rather than fear, we are ‘of God,’ or being true Christians.  When we are creating, we are ‘of God.’  When I am painting, I feel like I’m sitting next to God, if you want to picture God as a form.  God can take many forms, and I accept all forms of God that different religions present.

Next year will be the first time that I will truly devote myself full-time to painting without side distraction.  I want to make it an act of love and service and I will actively ask and pray for God’s guidance throughout.

“The artist, by turning inward to confront the source of all that creates, also helps the larger social order. Because an artist enters the solitude of silence to expand the potential of the imagination, the artist envisions horizons of hope within the human condition. Like a prophet their work calls others to new insights and challenges that inspire faith and hope. The ability to enter creation does not require talent, but the willingness to respond with “Yes.” The artist bridges the realm of the sacred and society by this commitment to return to the center of creativity through prayer.”  http://www.prayerwindows.com/art-as-a-prayer/

I have always been told that my talent is uncommon, but within the art world there are others just as talented or more so.  So, I thought, why should I go into painting, if it’s already being done just fine by others?

Really this was just masking my fear of saying, “Yes,” to the call of God.  I was afraid to just trust and devote myself to my work.  Afraid of losing my ego or worldly identity.  Afraid of losing the security of a regular job and regular life.  However, security is an illusion we agree to believe in.  There is always a trade-off for security.  I have never been willing to trade in my passion to create for a steady job.  Instead, I search for security through relationships with others and increasingly with the Cosmos.

There is a constant battle in me between the worldly life and the spiritual plane (this is why I love Herman Hesse so much, he writes with such talent on this dilemma). I yearn for a middle ground. I yearn for what I don’t have.  This year, I will practice devotion in my work and see where it takes me.  I will look at what is in front of me and try to see with clear eyes and authentically.  We are really so insignificant in the order of the world, I will keep this in mind whenever my ego demands that I should be doing this or that.

As far as marriage and family, I will keep this desire close to me, but try not to let it affect me.  I will remember that it took many years for the wish to have a year of painting to launch my career manifest.  When the time is right and I am ready, all things happen.

My wish for the future is to find a marriage between regularly visiting the spiritual plane and being in the Earthly one.  Perhaps this will come literally through marriage with someone who can keep me grounded or perhaps it will come via another route.

At any rate, this will be a year of authenticity, creativity, courage, and nourishment.

From “Higher Awareness” website:

Making a difference

“The spiritual life is a call to action. But it is a call to … action without any selfish attachment to the results.”

– Eknath Easwaran

Many of us feel deeply that we want to make a difference — we want our lives to mean something in the bigger scheme of life. While this is a noble motive, we might want to explore what lies at its root.

Does the drive to make a difference arise from ego’s need to feel worthy? If my ego is not convinced that I matter, I may want visible proof that I do by making some kind of impact on life.

Soul doesn’t need proof that it’s worthy. Soul thrives in being awake and connected. Perhaps if we let go of the pressure we feel from our ego’s need to be recognized, we will be more open and able to simply live soulfully. And by doing that, we WILL make a difference!

“A person’s worth is contingent upon who he is, not upon what he does, or how much he has. The worth of a person, or a thing, or an idea, is in being, not in doing, not in having.”

– Alice Mary Hilton

Organic Korea!

I am so excited, I’ve found the Korean version of Mariposa, the organic farmer’s market in Philly that sells only locally raised, mostly organic foods.  It only took me 8 months to find the Korean organic food scene – not bad!  It turns out the market is right in Chang Wan’s neighborhood, in fact, I think it’s next to Julia’s apartment building!

For a fee of $20 (which I get back when I leave), I became a member.  I bought free-range frozen chicken; already boiled, frozen beef soup; sweet potatoes, spinach, collards (or a cousin), garlic, onions, cherry tomatoes, dried beans and peanuts.

Afterwards, Ann took me for an early supper.  Ann is the Korean “grandma” whom I met a few months ago at the cafe in the neighborhood.  She is friends with the cafe owner, who hosts the candlelight concerts one Friday a month.  Ann is very kind and wanted to meet me for lunch since she was coming to Bundang anyway.  Her friend, the cafe owner, helps run the co-op.  So, when I found this out, I asked to become a member.  She helped me sign up and we drove over there after some deliciously prepared citron tea and dutch coffee.

This coffee house also has the best prepared, cold-drip coffee I’ve ever tasted.  The owner is a true artist and artisan.

When I told Ann I was sick, she insisted on treating me to some Korean chicken soup.  I felt so pampered today!  First at Chang Wans’ studio, and then by Ann.  We drove to the co-op, the restaurant, and then she drove me home.

The soup was superb.  Better than any chicken soup I’ve ever had, except that cooked by Chris or mom.

On the way there, Ann mentioned that she owned an apartment building in Ori, in a complex called, ‘Easyview.’  “I can’t believe it!” I said, “I live in Easyview!”  It turns out I live just a few doors down from the building that she owns and rents out!  Our paths were meant to cross, as she’s said :)

Three More Months

I can’t believe I’m only three months away from the end of my contract.  The time since August has been flying!  Chuseok, Halloween, and now Thanksgiving and Christmas are making the time fly by.

Teaching has been getting easier and I’ve grown to love all my kids, even the ones with behavior problems. :/

Last weekend I learned how addicted I am to the internet.  I came home Friday to find my internet not working.  The offices were closed for the weekend, so I had to wait until Monday to learn why my internet was not working.  Ironically, I had just participated in a practice debate with 5th graders at Poly on why social networking sites do more good than harm.  The 5th graders asserted that social networking sites (Facebook, MySpace, etc) are harmful because you can get addicted to them.  Stacy (on the teachers’ team) rebutted by saying, “Who’s to say that being addicted to something harmless is harmful?”

Well, I can say this, 80% of my socializing here is done online.  So, I learned just how much I rely on not only social networking sites, but email and internet radio and news.

Thankfully all of Korea is wired and there is a coffee house on every corner.

Saturday night I was in a really good mood.  Everything that everyone was doing was just ‘cute’ to me.  I just felt loving towards everyone.  I went to Seoul to a performance art show at a bar in Itaewon.  It was rather absurd, and I laughed a lot.  I think I laughed at things that weren’t necessarily intended to be the funny parts.  While we watched, we sketched.  That was the idea of the meetup, it was a Sketch group that meets at bars to sketch people.  I enjoyed myself.  Especially since it only takes 1 hour now to get to Itaewon on the new fast train!

I am going to try to paint this picture with words of a beautiful scene I saw at the sauna today.  There was an older woman with very short hair.  She was being held up by two young women, perhaps her daughters.  She was very weak.  They sat her down gently on a small, oval stool.  They took the shower head and wet her short, closely cropped hair.  Her shoulders hung weakly, under the orange hand towel placed over them.  The women wet the towel with warm water.  She raised her eyes and looked into the eyes of the girl holding the shower head.  She seemed to be saying a deep, heartfelt thank you with those eyes.  The girls washed her carefully, then led her to the hot water bath.  They picked up each leg, slowly, to lead her over the edge of the bath.  We all looked on the scene and some of us had tears in our eyes to witness such tender love and compassion.  I had tears in my eyes, remembering the weak state my own mother was in when she was going through chemotherapy.  It is possible that this woman was going through the same ordeal.

There are so many other sauna scenes I’ve witnessed that I want to paint.  It is such a lovely place to be in.  It is an escape from the rough and tough world outside.  Inside a garden of Eden, women only, where people are gentler and spirits are soothed.

I met a woman who spoke English and she is going to ask the owner if I can photograph there when no one is around.  I can’t wait to hear the reply!

Piri and Saeng-Hwang

On Friday night, I went to a concert at the little cafe near Chang Wan’s.  Ann, the amateur artist Korean grandma I met a few months ago, saved me a seat again.  I met two of her friends.  They didn’t speak English, so Ann translated.  One of the friends makes brooches.  She actually gave me one as a gift, saying it’s because I am friends with her friend, Ann.  This was just another example of the mysterious gift-giving nature of Koreans.  I have received unexpected gifts like this often there, and no matter how small they are, the gesture always touches me!  I want to adopt this custom that seems so foreign to me – I rarely ever buy myself gifts, let alone others!  But it seems like such a worth wile thing to do to brighten someone’s day.

The female musician was introduced first by a man, and then the cafe owner, the friend of Ann.  Of course, it was all in Korean, so I used the time to absorb the candlelit atmosphere.  I was surrounded again by Koreans who felt familiar to me in their artistic dress and appreciation of the arts.   I felt happy being there.

She introduced the first instrument, a tiny, traditional Korean bamboo flute, the Piri.  I was surprised at the sound that came out of this tiny instrument.  It was dark and piercing, reminding me of a saxophone at times and other times a bit comedic in it’s buzzy tone.  The pitch could not go so high because of the small size of the instrument.  She played expertly.

The next instrument was the Saeng-Hwang.  It was quite a visual sight, in fact, when I had seen it sitting there next to her, I didn’t realize it was an instrument.  I thought it was a sculpture.  Here is a description of it from Wikipedia:

It is constructed from 17 bamboo pipes, each with a metal free reed, mounted vertically in a windchest. Traditionally the saenghwang’s windchest was made out of a dried gourd but nowadays it is more commonly made of metal or wood. In contrast to other Korean traditional instruments, it is not well known today, even in Korea, and very few musicians are able to play it.

The way she played it was very sensual.  Again, the sound was unlike anything I’ve heard before.  It was a treat to see these instruments played solo and then with accompanying music in such an intimate setting.  I couldn’t take pictures because the interior was lit only by candles and therefore too dark.  One of the accompanying songs was a song that Chang Wan always plays in the studio – I can’t remember it right now though.

Staying or Leaving?

I was feeling so high yesterday.  I knew it was going to be a good day of painting at Chang Wan’s, and it was.  I worked on my new painting of horses.  I’m finally making the paintings I wanted to do when I went to Argentina in 2007.  It’s coming along nicely and I’m enjoying painting large like this.  I haven’t painted horses large like this yet, and I’ve been waiting to.

It’s so wonderful to have a painting companion.  We just sit in silence, or listening to classical music, painting together.  I like having the company of another painter in the room.  I draw energy and love from his presence and the presence of his work all around us.

I stayed until 2pm.  Afterwards, I went for a hike up the mountain next to his house.  I forgot to take pictures though.  My mind must have been spaced out.  That happens after I finish painting.  It’s like housekeeping for my mind, it gets swept out.  With each sigh that I utter, the tension of the week leaves my body.  There were many sighs as I lay on my back watching the sky like a television set.

In other news (I’ve been promising to write this in my blog),  I have decided that it would be better for me to stay in Korea next year in order to focus on finishing a portfolio for applying to school in 2012.  I think the seed of this realization had already been planted a while back.  I did not, however, have proof that it would be the right thing to do.  Now, I have met a small, expat artist community that will provide me with the missing need:  a studio space.  Artist, Mike Stewart, the director of Jankura Art Space, which will open in January,  said I could also teach workshops there.

Yeah, I’m sad I’m not coming back either.  I miss you and all my loved ones more than I can say.  However, my gut tells me it’s the thing I need to do.  That is, of course, if I get the right job here for the spring.  In Philly, I don’t know where I’d live, where I’d have a studio, and where I’d work part time and make enough money to pay the rent.  Here, if things work out the way I think they will, I should be able to find a job teaching adults 3 hours a day for about 1, 200/mo.  This would be enough to pay for a $500/mo rent.  I’m not sure how much studio rent will be…but I would also tutor on the side, which pays about $40/hour and I could teach art lessons :)   The thing that clinched it is meeting Mike Stewart at the Sunday sketch group.  He’s been here eight years, and is married to a Korean woman, so he has a lot of knowledge about life here.  We were talking and he convinced me that although this is not my land, and I don’t think I could ever feel at home here, staying one more year would be grasping an opportunity.

I hope to continue painting with Chang Wan next year, too.  I seem to draw such inspiration from him and his studio.  Jin, the retired art history professor I met, has photographic equipment to photograph large-scale paintings.  This will be perfect for the end of the year when I’ll need to shoot my work.  The original canvas I’ll have to roll up and send.  I haven’t done this, but this is doable.

It’s interesting how extremely different I can feel from day to day about staying here.  Some days, I feel so lonely and homesick and want to return home more than anything.  On other days, I feel my time is not finished here, that there is so much more to explore and more of Asia to see before I leave.  Also, I have been enjoying a sense of freedom here that I don’t feel in the States.  I’ve learned that the lonliness is the price to be paid for this feeling of freedom.  But, the lonliness always passes.  Those periods always end when I meet someone new, or a friend reaches out to me unexpectedly.  There is always art and nature, constant companions and healers.

So, I have been cultivating the ability to feel love while having no one in particular I am in love with.  I have been practicing how to just “be in love” in general rather than specifically in love with someone.  As soon as a person enters that sphere, problems always arise.  Insecurities surface, desires, pain from the past, anxiety – it seems endless.  For now, I am very content with the long distance relationship I have with Antonio in Florence.  It is non-threatening, validating and fun.  The feeling of pure freedom is so romantic to me, I could only be with a man who understood this because he feels the same way.  I am thinking more and more that I need to meet another artist.  I used to think that I wouldn’t be able to be with an artist in a relationship because so many unions I’ve seen between painters end in the female painter sacrificing for the family and supporting the male painter.  Maybe because I don’t understand this, it scares me.

Well that’s all the musings for now!

Tschuss

Ending Summer

The chorus of cicadas and crickets does not accompany me home anymore.  The moon is already high in the sky when I leave work.  There is stillness, darkness and the cold on my ride home.  I smell only the cold air, no more sweetness from the river.  So, I listen to music now and sometimes belt out songs on the way home.

Halloween is coming up.  The school takes it very seriously with very well-crafted decorations executed by the Korean staff.  I will dress up as a turtle for my pre-k kids.  In the afternoon, I’ve been contemplating having a different costume.  Chloe, one of my fourth graders, wants me to be a “desert woman.”  This would be easy enough…perhaps I’ll be a cowgirl.  It’s nice to have this diversion from routine, because we have no break until Christmas holiday in December.

It’s hard to believe that just seven months have gone by.  The year, like all others in my past, has been packed with experiences joyous and painful.  I’m grateful to have the freedom of movement to travel as much as I have.

I haven’t felt as strong an urge to travel while here as I thought I would.  I feel a stronger urge to set up a studio, like Chang Wans’, so I can paint and have a ‘home base’ to always retreat to.  The atmosphere of his studio is so peaceful.  Everything there seems to serve the purpose of love, light and paint.  It is a space that can only happen through years of loving devotion spent there.  I am so grateful that he has invited me into his space, to join him and his other students and family members in sharing this space with him.

Last weekend, I met his son, Jung Min Chang, and five year old granddaughter, Gio, and her mom, Eun Jung.  They are visiting from New Zealand, where the dad works for Weta Digital, an animation studio that was recruited to work on Avatar.  Here is an article about it: http://english.chosun.com/site/data/html_dir/2010/01/09/2010010900180.html

Next Saturday, I will interview Chang Wan, and his son will translate.  Hopefully, I can also interview his son a little. I feel fortunate to be among such talented people!

National Foundation Day

Yesterday was Armed Forces Day and tomorrow is National Foundation Day.  Here are excerpt from Wikipedia describing the holidays:

Armed Forces Day (Gukgunuinal) – The day recognizes, venerates, and honors the military forces of the Republic of Korea. In 1950, during the Korean War, South Korean Forces broke through the 38th parallel on October 1.

National Foundation Day (Gaecheonjeol)- The day celebrates the foundation of Gojoseon, the first state of the Korean nation. According to the Samguk Yusa, Dangun founded Gojoseon on the 3rd day of 10th lunar month, 2333 BC. Today, South Koreans celebrate their national foundation on October 3 according to the solar calendar, for convenience sake. “Gaecheonjeol” means “Heaven-opened Day”.

There must have been a ceremony at the elementary school next to Easyview for the holidays yesterday, because there was music and microphones starting at 9am.  I listened as I had my morning coffee at sat at the computer.

The day was sunny and cool at about 60 F.  I was in good spirits.  I was going to play soccer for the first time again in almost two months.  The game was a friendly match on a team I hadn’t played with before.  I met the captain and before long I realized that this was going to be just the type of teammate that I detest, the kind that never shuts up on the field.  As a player who prefers pick up soccer, where no one is barking commands at you, this was not the atmosphere for me.  So, back to looking for another team.  Perhaps I will try starting my own team with like-minded players.

After the game I treated myself to the most famous sauna in Seoul – the Dragon Hill Spa.  What a wondrous invention spas are, though I’m sure they are somehow very wasteful.  There are seven floors, each with a different focus aimed at relaxation, entertainment, sensory indulgence or exercise.  Click on the link to read an article by the NY Times:

http://www.nytimes.com/slideshow/2010/11/14/travel/20101114-seoul-hours-ss-4.html

My favorite was the outdoor area on the women-only floor.  I was the only one out there under the cold night sky sitting like a pampered princess in her private bath, staring at fake ivy on the tiled walls.  I will definitely have to come back!  And of course, the night would not be complete without another coincidence.  I ran into Peter, whom I had met playing soccer a few months ago.  He happened to be having dinner with colleagues at a bachelor party.  So, I crashed the party and joined the jolly men for some dinner and laughter. It was a nice way to end a day where I hadn’t had any meaningful exchanges with anyone all day.

This is the last long weekend off (Sat-Mon vacation) from Poly before Christmas, so I am determined to make it relaxing, interesting and productive.

Fall

Fall is here.  The first hint of it was actually one month ago, in August.  I could smell the change in the air – it was cooler and crisper.  The smell of the plants along the Tancheon are beginning to go slightly acrid as they turn brownish.  The leaves in the trees are showing a hint of color.  Last Friday I wore jeans for the first time since May and I now shut the windows at night.

With the coming of fall comes a new feeling of nostalgia.  I am suddenly aware of being away from home.  During the summer I didn’t think about it, perhaps because I was distracted by the heat and the sound of the cicadas, but now, the colored leaves and cold make me remember last fall, painting in the woods at Caumsett State Park.  I feel a little homesick because last fall and winter was the time right before I came to Korea.

I also might be feeling a second wave of homesickness because I am contemplating staying here another six months or so, if I find a position teaching painting.  This would enable me to work on my portfolio here and get free housing and a salary, which would not be so in the States.

Now, when I ride my bike home, it is already dark at 7:30.  I will look up into the dark blue sky because it is so expansive.  I am filled with the same feeling I had in Florence eight years ago: complete openness to possibility.   One night, as I was sitting at a restaurant having pasta and wine with Elizabeth, I felt like I could be in Soho, or on a narrow, familiar street Philadelphia. The places I’ve lived.  One day, Korea will be added the list.  As I move around from city to city, I am noticing that wherever you go, people are largely the same minus minor cultural differences.

Last Friday, I had the pleasure of having ‘front row seats’ at a tiny cafe/gallery near Chang Wan’s house to hear a pianist give a superb performance.

The front door was open and the cafe filled to capacity with artfully-dressed, middle-aged Korean women.  The group was a familiar one to me, the same you’d see at BAM (Brooklyn Academy of Music) or the salon in Philly or a sidestreet cafe in Italy or France.  “Ann,” a Korean grandmother had saved me a seat with her group.  We had met four weeks prior at the same cafe, when she was visiting from Seoul.  I was lucky because the tiny place was packed, but since she is good friends with the owner, we had the best table, right behind and to the left of the pianist.  She also introduced me to the pianist, who was scheduled to perform at the Seoul Arts Center the next week.  She spoke English well, as she had lived in NYC for 2 years while studying at Julliard.

All her selections were nocturnes.  “Dreaming” by Shuman, then nocturnes by Chopin and Debussy – she even played a whimsical “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star,” for all the little girls keenly watching her, aspiring to play like her.  The children were freely wandering in and out along with the cool evening air.  We all wrapped blankets around us and the music blended with the night.  The atmosphere was cozy and lit only by candles.  On the walls hung artwork and I had the feeling everyone there was an artist or art lover in their spare time.  At our table was Ann, an amateur painter; her two friends, one a sculptor and the other a social worker.  We sipped a warm, non-caffeinated beverage as we listened.

The pianist waited until the end, when all the kids were tired and went outside, to play Beethoven’s moonlight sonata. The headlights of a passing car would play with the atmosphere around her.  It seemed staged, the strange spotlight was the perfect compliment to the candlelight.

We drifted away with the music.

Saturday was a mandatory teacher’s workshop.  We all boarded a bus at 8am and headed to the convention center.  I was in good spirits, but less enthusiastic than at the first workshop in March.  I was mostly looking forward to the sushi at the buffet lunch, and it didn’t disappoint.  I didn’t learn a whole lot from the lectures, but they seemed to serve as more of a pep talk than anything else.  A lot of what they said were tips that you can’t apply because of the reality of having no time to lesson plan.  One of the presenters who works at the head office where they make the materials, even admitted that POLY curriculum is at capacity right now.  They have added on so many extras to the already rich curriculum that the kids and teachers simply do not have enough hours in the normal working day to complete everything.  With POLY it’s quantity over quality.  It is frustrating only when looked at with higher expectations, when accepted for what it is, I can and am learning from the experience.  I’m learning about my work habits, capacities and of course from the kids themselves who sometimes make me laugh out loud with their spontaneity and innocence.  They teach me so much about myself, bearing the brunt of my moods and sometimes provoking me.  Thank god I can laugh at myself, or this job would be impossible.

Compared to some jobs of others, this is cake.  I recently read a report from a Marine in Afghanistan, where they are still under Taliban attack in the north.  The hours of the days are marked so differently there.  What distorted reality it must be to live in a war zone.  How that must age and try your soul to its’ limits and for some, beyond.

Not too long ago, Korea was in a war, and now they are so prosperous.  How dramatically life can change from generation to generation.

Last Sunday, I wound up in Insadong for a few hours.  I wandered around a bit, looking in on a few galleries in this trendy, art district.  All the work was mediocre at best.  When I grew tired, I found a quite spot to read.

Later I went to see an aikido demonstration by a visiting headmaster from Japan.  It was alarming, some of the moves he was demonstrating.  From an observers perspective, it was impossible to know what was really happening as the trainees would rush at him, and he’d make them freeze in a position that looked (and often sounded) painful.  I thought of sado-masochism.  But, as he later said, watching this ancient Japanese martial art is like looking at a hot spring from a distance.  It’s impossible to “know” it unless you experience it.  The participants who train with him say that the energy exchange they get from learning aikido is addicting.  We, the observers-at-a-distance, were invited to feel some of the basics of the principle of chi at the end.  We did not (and perhaps could not?) ask to experience what the headmaster had been demonstrating.  It was a very unique experience.

Some “Seoul” Food

After seven months in a new country, one can start to fall in love with it – or at least begin to like it very much.  I wouldn’t say I am falling in love with Korea, but I did feel more at home in this strange land after getting a much needed shot of culture last weekend during our four-day holiday weekend.

On Sunday I went to Seoul and visited three museums and saw Deoksu palace and the changing of the guard.  I started the day at the Seoul Art Center, where I saw the Hundertwasser exhibit my first weekend in Korea.  I went to see Impressionist paintings on tour from the Musee D’Orsay.  I was so happy to be re-aquainted with so many classics.  I’m growing to love Renoir more and more, not so much his ladies, but everything else, especially his landscapes.  In one of his landscapes, he set out to depict the ugliness of the new railroad tracks cutting across the French countryside.  However,  he couldn’t help but to make the tracks look beautiful even if he wasn’t trying. They blend right in with the fruit trees and greenery in his landscape.  Everything he paints becomes representative of a romantic ideal.

The Birth of Venus was on display, along with works by Millet, Rochegrosse and Bonnard.  It was a pleasure revisiting paintings by so many artists I admire and who speak a language that is familiar to me.  The last time I saw them, I was 18 in Paris with Suzanne, 19…remember Suz?

At about 3pm, I hopped on a subway and continued on to City Hall area towards the Seoul Museum of Modern Art.  At the subway exit, I asked a city employee that they have stationed in some stations to help foreigners, for directions.  He told me the museum was right next to Deoksu palace, but first I should watch the changing of the guards because it starts in fifteen minutes.   I’m glad I did.  There was a small crowd and we watched the procession which lasted about twenty minutes.

As I watched, I noticed a sign advertising an exhibition of works from the Whitney Museum’s collection.  I decided to buy a ticket for this instead of going to the SOMA.  The works were housed in the National Museum of Contemporary Art, inside the walled palace grounds.  Deoksu is one of many palace grounds in Seoul.  It was built around 1392 during the Joseon Dynasty.  It is also called a place where “the East meets the West” because it has two western-style buildings and  a western-style fountain.  I sat there for a while feeding a magpie.  It was so peaceful and reminded me of Europe.

The show was neatly arranged into three themes: American Icon and Everyday Life, Object and Identity, and Object and Perception.  It was a real contrast to see early 20th century American art after seeing 19th century French and Italian Impressionist paintings.  The themes explored are so different,  as well as the language used to create the artistic interpretations.  I am more a fan of the classical art, but, I was re-acquainted with many modern artists whom I admire, pre-Pop artists like Rauschenburg and Jim Dine, who were interested in aesthetics and conceptual art.  In fact, much of the art I saw there I like.  There were examples by artists I respect and admire from the late 20th century, many of whom are still alive – Oldenburg, Sandy Skoglund, Christo, Jasper Johns, Sherri Levine and Jessica Stockholder to name a few. I find beauty in their work, but they are not executed in a language I would use.  Too much thinking involved, I am working more intuitively…but I’m interested in this intellectual process.

I enjoyed walking through the Korean style living quarters and exploring the wooded paths around them as the sun was setting.  I still had an hour to see some more art at the SOMA.  I wasn’t sure if they would let me in an hour to closing time, but they did.  There was a show of 14 young Korean painters:

“Rhetoric of the Images intends to suggest a direction in which Korean art should develop through a systematic examination of the ways of images’ existence in various forms in the context of diversifying contemporary art…”

I enjoyed all the work, which was diverse, and it provided me with names to further explore online.

I ended the day with some spicy street food called Tteokbokki.  It is a long rice cake with a texture like chewy dough.  The sauce is hot and spicy made with chili peppers.  It’s savory and spicy and comes with a whole boiled egg, and sometimes fish cakes or sliced meat.  It cost 3,000 won (which is about $3)  I joined Simon, Jessica, and a friend of hers for a couple drinks before calling it a night.

Monday we went to a Korean Folk Village near Ori.  It is only about a half hour bus ride away.  I had no idea what to expect, but the day was beautiful and the rest of Korea was all with family, so what better place to be than a place that celebrates the history of Korea. It turns out many other Korean families had the same itinerary.  The place was packed, and I was told this is the busiest day of the year by a landslide.  The grounds were huge and filled with the objects, animals, food, shelter, etc that Koreans used and lived in every day before modernization.  At 2pm we sat down to see the first of the three shows that are performed every day here.  I had no idea I was in for such a treat!  The first was the equestrian show.  I didn’t know until a Korean told me that the performers were Mongolian.  They were such gifted horsemen – and women, completely natural on horseback.  It was a real thrill to watch them.

Next, I fell in love with the Korean performers of the Farmer’s Folk Dance.  The music, dance movements and costumes were all new to me.  I especially enjoyed the wonderfully playful hats the men wore – and all the performers were men.  Some had these huge colorful pom-poms, others, big puffy feathers that looked alive.  Whenever the men walked or moved their heads, the feathers seemed to be talking or laughing.  They reminded me of Muppets.  The younger men wore hat with long strings or thin banners attached.  They would move their heads in choreographed nodding motions and the string/banner would come to life, whipping around in the air, completely under control of the head wearing the hat it was attached to.  Then they would do these amazing sideways jump turns that looked like taekwando maneuvers.  Everyone was smiling, the performers, the crowd, and we were all clapping to the music.

We ate in a food court very unlike an American food court.  Everyone sits on the floor in under Korean-style roofs and we eat organic and healthy Korean food, as unlike fast food as you can get.  Any food that is not fast food and prepared simple and fresh, I like, so I really enjoy Korean home-cooking.

The best meal I’ve had so far is the lunch I got the next day (Tuesday) at Chang Wan’s.  They invited me to have lunch upstairs in the house after we finished painting.  We had leftovers from Chuseok.  I wish I had taken pictures!  Even as I write this now, I am feeling hungry.  We had this beef they call L.A. beef (I’m not sure why).  It is marinated for two days in a marinade of pears, garlic, oil and I forget the rest.  It was perhaps the tastiest and most tender beef I’ve ever had.  Then there were the typical Korean Banchan (side dishes) but all homemade, fresh, not overpowered with spice and made with love, so 10x tastier!

Korean Critique and weekend musings

I’m sitting at my favorite cafe right now in Ori having a glass of wine.  Across from me are two Korean couples, one with a small dog on the girls’ lap and the other with a white cat on his lap.  I find this picture odd because cats, as I know them, do not like to be in one spot for very long.  So far, the white cat is not struggling, but I find it hard to believe he/she actually likes his/her predicament.  I think that having cats and dogs as pets may be a relatively new thing for Koreans, based on the knowledge that you can eat dog at some restaurants here, and perhaps cat, too.

A few weeks ago, Simon and I went to a “cat cafe” not far from here (perhaps “cat den” is more apt).  The cats roamed around disinterestedly among the humans who were poking, prodding and feeding them.  I found it very bizarre.  It felt like a harem.  The cats could have cared less about the people and frankly they all seemed to be either looking for “the way out” or trying to take a nap (although this often didn’t work for long because someone would inevitably come up and poke the cat until it opened it’s eyes).  I felt bad for them.

Yuck, there it happens again…I’m going to have to bring up something I find annoying, and frankly disgusting about many Korean men, and some women.  Public hacking.  Yes the very loud, unabashed disposal of phlegm in public that you are forced to hear as you are sitting at a cafe or biking by, or even at home with your window open.  I might as well go all out and tell about the other things that are distasteful or odd to me about Koreans that I’ve observed.   The binge drinking that men do here and their public drunkeness.  The evidence of their binge drinking (on the sidewalk) on the way to work on Mondays.

Also, Koreans seem to have a fear of the sun.  I haven’t figured out if it’s more a health concern or a beauty concern.  It’s probably a combination of both.  Men and women alike cover their whole bodies, including their arms and hands with gloves and arm warmers in impossible heat and humidity.  When they are swimming, they wear T-shirts and sometimes pants, full clothing in the water.  Perhaps it’s also modesty.  When we went to the pool with the kids, one of the boys would not take his wet shirt off and sit in the sun to get warm.  Instead he insisted on sitting in the shade, with his wet shirt on, shivering.   I tried to explain to him and the Korean co-teachers that he would be warmer taking off his wet shirt and sitting in the sun for a little bit.  No one seemed to understand what I was saying.  The Korean co-teachers also did not leave any skin uncovered, and many stayed under umbrellas while I was splashing around in a sort of bathing suit dress, most of my skin exposed.  I had fun, got wet and got to feel some sun on my skin and I guess they had fun too in their own way :)

Couples do not show public affection here.  If they do, it is VERY infrequent and very likely they they are a bit drunk.  They have no objection to public drunkenness, but affection, no.  In Italy or South America, people are much more openly warm and intimate with each other.  I like it to be somewhere in the middle.  As a culture, I’d describe Koreans as shy, family-oriented and generous.  They love giving gifts to each other.  If there’s one thing I will bring back from this Korean experience, it’s the fun habit of continuous, small gestures of kindness that all Koreans practice – even small children.

Older women are very touchy and kind to me here.  In the sauna, when I met Julia’s grandma, Hymoni at Chang Wan’s – all these older women are very sweet and affectionate with me.  Often taking my hand or touching me in a kind way.  I think it’s part of the whole older sister/younger sister relationship here.  Bonds between women are very strong in families and emphasized it seems.  Once, I observed in the sauna a mother and two daughters, maybe age 11 and 12.  The daughters were scrubbing the mother’s back.  They were all so at ease with each other, fully nude.  I think this must form a special bond between mother and daughter.  America, with it’s emphasis on individuality, seems much more ill at ease with nudity and family bonding.  It sounds funny to put those two themes together, but it’s something to consider I guess.

What have I been up to since I last wrote?  I haven’t been playing soccer on Saturdays for the last month because my painting sessions sometimes go overtime, which I gladly welcome.  So, fall hiking might fill in for exercise for the time being, until I maybe find a Sunday league or some team in Bundang.

Autumn is in the air!  I can smell it in the evenings when I bike home.  The cool air smells crisp and the loud singing of the cicadas is waning.  The crickets are still singing, and the mosquitoes are increasing.  The curriculum has changed to the theme of Fall and today I saw the first hint of orange leaves on a tree.

I wrote a poem three weeks ago while sitting in the grass one warm evening, waiting for the sunset.

“A Painting”

people

Purple

my favorite color

eyes, lips, hair

Reflections in the water

pavement

pleasure

playful people passing by

poetry

purple

providence, you brought me here

pink passion

“Maybe she’s writing a love letter”

Two weeks ago, Hymoni took Chang Wan, me and her grandson out for Japanese sushi.  It was absolutely fabulous!  I wish I had taken pictures of the fish.  I am going to try to go back, so I will the next time.  She had told me the week before that she was going to take me out.  We had very raw, immense quantities of fish, fish stew and moving squid tentacles.  It was weird to put moving tentacles in my mouth, but at least they stopped moving once I bit them.  I felt a little bad eating them…but they were so tasty!  My conversation was with the 11 year old boy most of the time since he spoke English and the other two don’t.  He did translate for us some of the time.  He spent two years in school in Australia, so his English was pretty good.

I have started painting a copy of one of Chang Wan’s paintings.  I thought it would be good to see how he solves his backgrounds.  I also like the way he paints flowers.  I never painted flowers very much before nor considered them an interesting subject until now.   Painted flowers can be quite mundane as a subject matter as they proliferate in public spaces at the hands of  amateur painters.  However, I really like the way Chang Wan paints them so expressively and vibrantly.  So, I am copying one of his earlier ones.  Next, I think I will paint a large canvas of some horses.

This Monday is Chuseok, the Korean Thanksgiving.  It is an important holiday for Koreans, and we have Monday and Tuesday off for it.  I decided not to travel, as the roads will be all extremely congested and I am still in the mood to just stay in Bundang and have long and peaceful days right here. On Friday, the little kids came in dressed in their Hanboks, traditional Korean wear.  Hanboks are simple, but very colorful.  It was fun seeing them all and taking pictures.  We played games all day instead of our regular curriculum.  I received some gifts too, like the rice cakes below and a beautiful scarf which I’m sure will appear in upcoming photos!

Last Sunday, Sept 4, I went hiking up a mountain in Seoul called Gwanak Mountain.  It is a very rocky, steep mountain that you can reach by subway.  I met with the Seoul Hiking Group at 11am.  We were a small group of Americans, Germans and one Filipino – our leader.  I enjoyed the physicality of the hike, the conversation on the way up, and the beautiful sky and scenery.  It was a perfect day for hiking: sunny, clear, not too hot and breezy.  On the way up we took frequent rests and even had some makgeoli, Korean rice wine sold at frequent intervals along with ice cream by vendors on the mountain.  Even at the peak, was a rest station with food for sale.  I’m not sure how they get all that food up there??  There were many climbers ranging from kids around age 7 to elders around age 70 something – and even a little dog!  Koreans love hiking, and they love to wear high fashion hiking garb!  On the next trip, I will have to take more photos of the colorful, designer garb they wear.


 

February 2012
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Barbara Zanelli’s Website